tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post3463049152636720962..comments2024-03-18T00:16:37.094-05:00Comments on ikat bag: Drafting Part V -Drafting A Basic Sleeve BlockLiErhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13022645291278425282noreply@blogger.comBlogger44125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-6210620452796987942023-01-07T01:00:02.426-06:002023-01-07T01:00:02.426-06:00thank you for your sharing, it was very useful :))...thank you for your sharing, it was very useful :))Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-49758586670497311872021-07-01T03:04:34.590-05:002021-07-01T03:04:34.590-05:00You have helped me relate the measurements to the ...You have helped me relate the measurements to the pattern and I now feel confident about the process. I'm so excited at the prospect of being able to make clothes for my granddaughter that will fit her properly and look nice - you've inspired me - can't thank you enough!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14316824915091271028noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-79535256774774154792019-01-28T16:03:50.389-06:002019-01-28T16:03:50.389-06:00Thanks so much very simple I tried other sleeve pa...Thanks so much very simple I tried other sleeve pattern and just tore it up because they were too complicated.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13216662473228829193noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-51003311843791518952018-03-08T23:36:22.046-06:002018-03-08T23:36:22.046-06:00This was perfect. I should have come here first to...This was perfect. I should have come here first to draft my sleeve sloper.Pithy Onehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14711215076427880658noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-18768114423787595712017-10-03T15:19:41.572-05:002017-10-03T15:19:41.572-05:00Can I use this method to add a sleeve on a pattern...Can I use this method to add a sleeve on a pattern I have bought and without a child to measure?Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06118675992340553611noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-24143007272048974272017-06-14T15:00:43.694-05:002017-06-14T15:00:43.694-05:00Thank you so much for this explanation! I've g...Thank you so much for this explanation! I've got novice levels of experience working with sleeves, and every time leading up to now has been a fitting nightmare. This worked beautifully, and I managed to do it the first time! This helped me get over the what I felt to be the most daunting part of my project, drafting the sleeve cap. Thank you again!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12258151841242368843noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-8572769633893288992017-06-14T14:58:09.468-05:002017-06-14T14:58:09.468-05:00I just wanted to thank you for this explanation. I...I just wanted to thank you for this explanation. I've not done a lot of work drafting patterns, or sewing sleeves period, because the few I've done haven't turned out well but using this and some other help from this blog made my sleeves come out beautifully. The first time. Sure, my neckline needs some work, but for what I want it for I'm absolutely shocked and proud that I managed to do it so easily, especially considering how daunting it felt to draw the sleeve cap! Thank you!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12258151841242368843noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-59229547925282514162017-03-06T20:57:23.377-06:002017-03-06T20:57:23.377-06:00I love love your post. Looks very easy to follow. ...I love love your post. Looks very easy to follow. Clear and simple representation with diagrams. Thank you so much.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18105571977485715273noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-10161346350597714012016-03-11T22:23:06.690-06:002016-03-11T22:23:06.690-06:00wonderful! the older patterns from the 50's a...wonderful! the older patterns from the 50's and even into the 60's had much more fitted sleeves and allowed hardly any movement. women wore 'house dresses' for doing chores and then changed into doll clothes when they left the house. of course, now women DO move, and not only when they're doing laundry. so, of course, flatter sleeve caps. yay us!<br />as for the forward rolling shoulders, i do remove about 3/4" of the shoulder seam, front bodice only, leaving the neck point alone and angling down toward the armscye. on the back bodice, i add that same amount. the result is that the seam, when closed, has moved the shoulder seam point forward on the top joint of my arm, which is MY shoulder point, because I have a forward rolling shoulder. if i don't do this all my tops ride upward in the front. the reason is that i have a slightly rounded upper back from sewing and deskwork for many years. that rounded area needs extra fabric to cover itself and if it isn't built into a pattern, it 'steals' it from the front by pulling the front upward and toward the back. it affects the back of the garment, the shoulders, the armscye and the sleevecap. the sleevecap will need to have a new center point to match up to the new shoulder point. whew!barbarahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04781816935962671772noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-90426078981272701782016-03-11T06:44:01.612-06:002016-03-11T06:44:01.612-06:00Barbara,
I'm less familiar with the term "...Barbara,<br />I'm less familiar with the term "forward shoulder adjustment" than the actual issue on an physical body, but I'm guessing that it has to do with shoulders rolling forward so that the back of the sleeve cap needs to be longer than the front to accommodate that asymmetrical shape. Yes, in a properly-drafted fitted sleeve cap, and especially for special adjustments, the front can't possibly be the same as the back, which might suggest why commercial sleeve patterns rarely fit perfectly without adjustments for the individual. Here is a later sleeve post that might help explain the nuances of a sleeve cap:<br /><br />http://www.ikatbag.com/2014/03/subtelties-in-drafting-sleeves.htmlLiErhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13022645291278425282noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-45399911159351258712016-03-10T22:26:40.532-06:002016-03-10T22:26:40.532-06:00the newer sleeve patterns seem to have identical f...the newer sleeve patterns seem to have identical front and back caps. since armholes have different measurements in the front and back, how can that possibly work? also, if i've done a forward shoulder adjustment, how does that affect the sleeve cap?barbarahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04781816935962671772noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-89459380442437047412015-07-21T09:47:42.039-05:002015-07-21T09:47:42.039-05:00i appreciate your posts and what a gem of a find!!...i appreciate your posts and what a gem of a find!! thank you. i am new to sewing and find your tutorials easy to understand and thanks for answering questions from other readers.. (*i was also wondering about seam allowance). I am currently making my own coat and keep adding and subtracting to the cardboard template then sticking it together again with sticky tape. your tutorials give me more guidance on why things are the way they are so i dont have to make so many adjustments. :) showmesexyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03136231996999528636noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-20708399366969628772015-05-21T21:22:56.504-05:002015-05-21T21:22:56.504-05:00I have been sewing for 60+ yrs and have never seen...I have been sewing for 60+ yrs and have never seen such a clear. logical explanation. Hats off to you. Thank you.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-27398598617107884892015-05-10T00:06:32.389-05:002015-05-10T00:06:32.389-05:00Thank you so much for this. Thank you so much for this. Shaheenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01049247075596844124noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-45982982893116803122014-12-01T21:09:25.981-06:002014-12-01T21:09:25.981-06:00Bless you for a sleeve drafting method that is wri...Bless you for a sleeve drafting method that is written plain enough for me to get started right away. I've read so many methods...Josienoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-81130010215842531082014-06-01T16:29:17.044-05:002014-06-01T16:29:17.044-05:00Fiona, forgot to mention: even more important than...Fiona, forgot to mention: even more important than the size of the armscye when adding sleeves to an originally-sleeveless dress is where the shoulder point is. Sometimes sleeveless dresses are designed to have special shoulders - halternecks, or cap sleeves or something else that has the shoulder point not where it would naturally be to accommodate a sleeve. Check that it is where your real shoulder point is before adding a sleeve. LiErhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13022645291278425282noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-69726489996554236922014-06-01T16:27:13.345-05:002014-06-01T16:27:13.345-05:00Fiona, welcome to the exciting (and sometimes bewi...Fiona, welcome to the exciting (and sometimes bewildering) world of drafting!<br /><br />To answer your questions:<br />1 Our blocks are, by definition, without SA. SA are what commercial companies add to PATTERNS (not blocks) to make it easier for home seamstresses to lay out and cut out the fabric pieces for garments. And sometimes some of us (especially those who are older-school) omit SA from our patterns also. Either way, blocks NEVER have SA and patterns sometimes do and sometimes don't. It's good that you asked. So yes, you must add SA to all of the garment patterns you find on ikatbag (unless otherwise stated), and to ANY block you find on ikatbag. <br /><br />2 So your sleevecap is 1.5" longer than the circumference of your armscye. This could mean that <br /><br />(i) your armscye is too big and you will end up with an uncomfortable sleeve which pulls on your bodice when you move your arms. This is very, very often the case with sleeveless dresses, whose armscyes tend to be cut low and big. Determine if this is the case by measuring around your armpit/shoulder region or comparing with a dress you have whose armscye fits well, and then cut your armscye smaller when you transfer the pattern onto fabric. Shrink your armscye by using combination of any or all of the following methods: (a) raise the bottom edge of the armscye so it's not as low; (b) add a bust dart if you are a B cup or larger; (c) cut the front of the armscye closer to the armpit. <br /><br />(ii) Your armscye is perfect but the sleevecap is literally too short along that curve. Simply extend the ends by 0.75" to make up that 1.5" shortage. Your bicep line will be naturally extended, as will the width of the sleeve hem. In other words, your entire sleeve will be looser around your arm. <br /><br />Here is another post you might enjoy reading - it's all about sleeves.<br />http://www.ikatbag.com/2014/03/subtelties-in-drafting-sleeves.htmlLiErhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13022645291278425282noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-85071018082156770902014-06-01T10:11:37.878-05:002014-06-01T10:11:37.878-05:00Forgive me if this is a daft question - I'm a ...Forgive me if this is a daft question - I'm a complete novice, trying to add sleeves to a sleeveless dress pattern... Anyway, my question is, does the pattern your instructions make include seam allowances, or do I need to add those? Also, from my measurements I have ended up with a curve length that is 1.5" shorter than the armscye - what's the best way to adapt what I've done to make a curve that's long enough? Thank you!Lewislovelyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04024826320732493796noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-31519949952591415582014-04-30T16:25:00.018-05:002014-04-30T16:25:00.018-05:00The best and the easiest tutorial. Im new to dress...The best and the easiest tutorial. Im new to dressmaking. My first ever Time with pattern making. Used the tutorial for child bodice. And now the sleeves. Didn't find a guide like this for drawing the sleeve cap. Will update once I draft the bodice. Hopefully tomorrow. I have the measures for my 6yr old (after much groaning and grumbling)and your tute. Hope I took the measures right. Thank you and keep posting. .....I will get back if I get stuck.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-81801605792065483952013-09-18T07:00:26.628-05:002013-09-18T07:00:26.628-05:00I hope I wiil make a nice sleeve after going throu...I hope I wiil make a nice sleeve after going through this blog..thanxAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-46595819507360818252013-08-22T01:21:18.309-05:002013-08-22T01:21:18.309-05:00By far the best tute I have come acrossBy far the best tute I have come acrossMayurivenkateshhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14056945867213881582noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-31136149387008779852013-08-22T01:20:20.397-05:002013-08-22T01:20:20.397-05:00This is by far the best drafting post I have come ...This is by far the best drafting post I have come across......Mayurivenkateshhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14056945867213881582noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-3518906782887613962013-07-30T14:03:07.330-05:002013-07-30T14:03:07.330-05:00Really great step-by-step instructions. Thanks fo...Really great step-by-step instructions. Thanks for posting!Ookiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08001950889975842767noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-56059264540405453722013-07-10T07:06:28.566-05:002013-07-10T07:06:28.566-05:00WoW! I agree with the other comments here... thi...WoW! I agree with the other comments here... this is just what I was looking for. A simple, step by step of how to draft a sleeve. Couldn't have been done better, the illustrations and explanations (math and all!) was the information that I needed to know.<br /><br />THANKS!<br />Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-10923614005014607252013-06-14T15:58:06.693-05:002013-06-14T15:58:06.693-05:00THANK YOU!!! This is GREAT!! I am trying my first...THANK YOU!!! This is GREAT!! I am trying my first ever projects at sewing and wanted to try a very simple shirt. Could not find a tutorial on drafting the sleeves - this was perfect!!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com