tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post4608312335288345807..comments2024-03-18T00:16:37.094-05:00Comments on ikat bag: Subtleties of Drafting: Darts Part III - Drafting DartsLiErhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13022645291278425282noreply@blogger.comBlogger26125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-72078839412583090372022-07-27T16:35:29.342-05:002022-07-27T16:35:29.342-05:00Vee: this is a great question! Having never worked...Vee: this is a great question! Having never worked in the fashion industry, I can only share what I've learned from drafting as a home seamstress. First, it is rare (but not impossible) to achieve a perfect fit with the first draft. We work with geometry and plot lines as best we can with the dimensions we take from a human body, but those lines are theoretical at best. For instance, drafts are typically drawn with straight lines, but there are no actually straight lines in a human body. I've found that it is normal to reposition seam lines and darts (and sometimes quite dramatically change) after fitting the first muslin. Dart points landing on the bust apex itself are not uncommon in the first draft - sometimes the shape/slump of the person's actual bust cannot be detected from their bust measurements and the apex may fall differently "in person" than expected. <br />Second, I've found that curved darts can shape contours more closely than straight darts. This might help with with greater differences between the bust and lower bust dimensions. <br />Third, sometimes the location of the dart might be more useful than the size. For instance, a single dart (even if it's large) opening into the armhole may better shape the bust area for a well-endowed person than two smaller underbust/waist darts. I'd say try different locations in your drafts to see if your body contours respond better to some more than others. <br /><br />Good luck! LiErhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13022645291278425282noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-56774757099250899872022-07-08T13:21:03.869-05:002022-07-08T13:21:03.869-05:00Whenever I do a search for fitting help your blog ...Whenever I do a search for fitting help your blog seems to always come up, which doesn't surprise me - I always find something new (to me) and helpful. So my question is: are there basic "rules" for creating darts about which I should be aware? Like, the dart legs can be no more X wide for Y long? Is that why my darts don't always lay flat against my contours but have a bit of excess fabric? Background: I have a 44" bust with a 39" upper bust/chest and 38" lower bust/ribs so getting smooth darts is a challenge. Most sewing patterns have the bust vanishing point right *on* my apex (!) and the last thing I want is the dart point ending there! But getting one *large* dart to lay smoothly is not something I've achieved and I wonder if there's a geometric law somewhere that I'm breaking that will not allow me to create a smooth dart so I have to create two?? Thoughts?Veenoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-22061188592883582152020-06-07T17:25:30.431-05:002020-06-07T17:25:30.431-05:00Diya, that is a good question. Those pattern books...Diya, that is a good question. Those pattern books are also right. The theory of dart rotation/dart manipulation is exactly that: darts CAN be interchanged to move ease around to places of preference (or convenience, such as in styling a garment). The challenge is in getting that good fit. Sometimes a good fit is obtained only after choosing to place darts in certain places over other places for particular body shapes. Some figures are more easily fitted with certain dart locations (meaning they can still be fitted with darts elsewhere but it might not be as simply done, and might require more darts or seam shaping along with darts, etc.). Also, people define "a good fit" differently - what is just right to some of us might be too tight to others, or too loose to yet others. Over the years, my own definition of "a good fit" has changed as I understand drafting more. I cannot recommend muslins enough. They can help us best see (and feel) the effects and relative advantages of darts in different places on the draft. Hope this has been helpful. LiErhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13022645291278425282noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-75144984482572177942020-06-06T19:55:46.753-05:002020-06-06T19:55:46.753-05:00This was a very detailed post. Lovely. You are a t...This was a very detailed post. Lovely. You are a treasure house of information :) thanks for sharing. I have a simple question, hope you would choose to answer it. I have read some pattern making books which describe dart manipulation techniques. Here it is told that once we get a good fit the dart can be manipulated to any location and the final 3D shape of the bodice will remain same. This slightly contradicts with your explanation, where we have to choose the dart location based on body shape for good fit. Any thoughts on this please. Diyahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02942255567187249540noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-86862713401967575532018-10-06T23:27:55.275-05:002018-10-06T23:27:55.275-05:00AA: Unfortunately, without seeing you in person, I...AA: Unfortunately, without seeing you in person, I am unable to suggest what numbers to use. However, it sounds like you have a good understanding of the different factors that affect shaping. For instance, you are aware that the cup size (or bust measurement) alone mean very little, and that measurements taken from different angles reveal very different things about the same bust shape. That is a good place to start, so be encouraged that you are further along in your instinctive drafting knowledge than you might think.<br />Perhaps the most useful consideration is the actual shape of your bust, and how that CONTRASTS to the other contours around it e.g. your midriff area, the space between the sides of your bust and your arms etc. From your description, it sounds like the greater "hollows" are midchest between your breasts and above them. <br /><br />Other questions to ask: what is the "spread" of your bust, how shapely vs drapey do you want your garment to be, where do you want the bust darts situated (armhole, underbust, shoulder, etc). <br /><br />For a first muslin (and without actually seeing you in person, so I'm kinda shooting in the dark here), I'd suggest <br />(i) using a little less than 12 cm difference to draft armhole darts but<br />(ii) situating the dart points not exactly at the bust apex i.e. maybe an inch before the apex, for gentler bust shaping<br />(iii) using a small underbust dart, if at all and<br />(iv) if any waist shaping is desired, using shaped side seams instead of underbust darts<br />(v) shaping the neckline in some way to prevent gaping<br /><br />and then making changes to that first muslin. You should be able to see right away where the problem areas are, because the muslin will drape your actual contours, and not just be a physical representation of the measurement numbers.<br /><br />Hope this helps some!LiErhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13022645291278425282noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-68767240239191472112018-10-06T01:23:21.089-05:002018-10-06T01:23:21.089-05:00I have a dart size question: I usually wear very ...I have a dart size question: I usually wear very large bras (14G in Australian sizing). <br />When I measure Full Bust and High Bust there is an 11cm difference. <br />When I measure Neck to Waist between and over breasts, there is only a 4cm difference. <br />If I measure Neck to Underbust between and over breasts, there is a 12cm difference, so I think my post-baby belly blubber is messing up my measurements! (Sadly my waist measurement is larger than my underbust, but not enough to justify still wearing maternity shirts.)<br />Looking down into my cleavage, my breasts protrude 7cm from my rib cage. <br />Should I use a 4cm side dart or 12cm, or something in between? I usually follow Winifred Aldrich, but the bust dart/armhole shaping has always been weird and is worse than ever after bub!AAhttps://www.craftsy.com/profile/a-a-s-pattern-storenoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-22286594653307244932018-10-02T09:08:50.643-05:002018-10-02T09:08:50.643-05:00Unknown: yes, you're right - I didn't thin...Unknown: yes, you're right - I didn't think about concave being the final effect of the shaping and instead referred to the dart itself (convex) as drawn on the paper pattern. Thank you for pointing that out.LiErhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13022645291278425282noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-60694017799394790482018-09-28T14:06:57.296-05:002018-09-28T14:06:57.296-05:00This has been just about the most useful article I...This has been just about the most useful article I've read on the subject (and I've been struggling with my own fitting shell for weeks). But I think you may have convex and concave confused.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01448257135417095475noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-46898756277669143522017-04-08T15:42:29.783-05:002017-04-08T15:42:29.783-05:00thank you! i learned sewing from reading blogs and...thank you! i learned sewing from reading blogs and watching instruction videos. one of my blouses bunches up, i'll put darts on the next one to improve the fit.orangeade.mhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00165402420403460346noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-14085897923659815252017-01-12T08:30:41.266-06:002017-01-12T08:30:41.266-06:00Yes, you'd add 1" to the length of the si...Yes, you'd add 1" to the length of the side seam on either side, then draw a new waistline 1" lower than the original, and a new hem (assuming your bodice extends below the waist to, say, around the hip for a blouse) that's also 1" lower. You may want to lower the center front by 1" as well and draw a waistline that's straight across, but this will give you a bit of a natural dip in the center front in the finished garment when the darts are closed. Because of the curves of the body, this can look as natural as a true horizontal hemline. If you'd rather a perfectly straight hemline (or waistline), you can lower only the side seams but not the center front. When the darts are closed, the waistline will revert to being horizontal (in theory).LiErhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13022645291278425282noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-83432590427952400812017-01-11T04:09:16.743-06:002017-01-11T04:09:16.743-06:00Sorry, when I say 1 inch dart, I mean a total of 1...Sorry, when I say 1 inch dart, I mean a total of 1 inch (1/2 inch on each side of fold).kushamihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17348980220982246051noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-56618012672483310792017-01-11T03:58:06.934-06:002017-01-11T03:58:06.934-06:00Ooh, thank you! I should have been clearer: I have...Ooh, thank you! I should have been clearer: I have an undarted bodice pattern with straight side seams and want to alter it to have an underarm dart (preserving the shape, length etc. otherwise). And I would add 1 inch of length to the side seam as well, then draw in a new hemline?kushamihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17348980220982246051noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-68598372915488289832017-01-10T20:41:36.173-06:002017-01-10T20:41:36.173-06:00It depends on what you mean by "add", an...It depends on what you mean by "add", and when (i.e. which part of the construction/alteration process) you do the adding. But the short answer is "yes, you would lower the waist by 1" at the side seam" in practice.LiErhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13022645291278425282noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-21531079619454785062017-01-10T07:46:37.409-06:002017-01-10T07:46:37.409-06:00Hmm, if I add a 1 inch underarm dart, do I tilt th...Hmm, if I add a 1 inch underarm dart, do I tilt the waist 1 inch lower at the side seam?kushamihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17348980220982246051noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-41636270447644431192015-01-13T23:51:48.028-06:002015-01-13T23:51:48.028-06:00good onegood oneChristina typearlshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15044959436649146388noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-15005191517896200842015-01-13T20:13:29.269-06:002015-01-13T20:13:29.269-06:00Once again, a great series. You must have been a ...Once again, a great series. You must have been a fabulous physics teacher! <br /><br />Incidentally, thank you for including tips/theory on drafting for those of us who are less-well-endowed. I am small chested and very long in the torso, both above and below the bust. I could almost wear a rectangle and call it good. One can find all sort of tips and examples for drafting for large women but no one ever includes the opposite scenario in their tips/tutorials/theory as if its intuitively obvious. Thanks for extending your theory in both directions. Annehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01764732022592880069noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-1136696457281134892015-01-12T21:15:04.051-06:002015-01-12T21:15:04.051-06:00I always feel like my head is going to burst open ...I always feel like my head is going to burst open from new information after reading any of your drafting series. I often go back and re-read a few times because each time I get more nuance.Sarahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03792197358143132340noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-56919854566961789412015-01-12T17:56:16.022-06:002015-01-12T17:56:16.022-06:00Those body type graphs are really helpful! You are...Those body type graphs are really helpful! You are the only person I have ever seen make a curved-seam dart, but it makes a lot of sense.MaryAnnehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13253503049272771754noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-79696183479607995172015-01-12T07:24:42.572-06:002015-01-12T07:24:42.572-06:00amazing - thanks so much for this. is making me t...amazing - thanks so much for this. is making me think about how i adjust for different sizes between bust and waist. i would normally just grade out at the waist, but from this that might not be the best option. thank you!Sew little timehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04027164681383524032noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-52077739341933297742015-01-12T07:08:04.721-06:002015-01-12T07:08:04.721-06:00How wonderfully clear and useful! Thank you so muc...How wonderfully clear and useful! Thank you so much!<br />-HannahSAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-88920566195183940312015-01-11T21:14:41.044-06:002015-01-11T21:14:41.044-06:00Allison: I must get my hands on that book someday!...Allison: I must get my hands on that book someday! I've heard other people mention it, as well, but I've never read it. Thanks for the recommendation!LiErhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13022645291278425282noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-50609913622852733092015-01-11T21:02:43.492-06:002015-01-11T21:02:43.492-06:00I bought a cool old book in the thrift store yeste...I bought a cool old book in the thrift store yesterday. How to Make Clothes That Fit and Flatter by Adele Margolis. 1969. It shows many of the same techniques you are going over and it is giving me a nice comparison. I always print these awesome posts out to keep with my sewing books. <br />I have some "shape issues" so these are great. <br />Next step is to make my own Fleur.Allisonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12508774981992452608noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-41292871628934556402015-01-11T09:18:08.458-06:002015-01-11T09:18:08.458-06:00Thanks for such great food for thought! Is a slope...Thanks for such great food for thought! Is a sloper the same thing as a pattern?Craft A Lifehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13767393659010281630noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-41506691588046137762015-01-11T07:14:54.286-06:002015-01-11T07:14:54.286-06:00Thank you so much for taking the time to do this!!...Thank you so much for taking the time to do this!! I love your charts and graphs. As someone who is constantly having fit issues, this is a tremendous help!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16952958127335053144noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4540761711646097949.post-53486865484067278632015-01-11T03:35:28.974-06:002015-01-11T03:35:28.974-06:00Really interesting, thank you for sharing thisReally interesting, thank you for sharing thisClaire Cooperhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15923437480914463238noreply@blogger.com