So...... the quivers.
Remember that Dad is a sports archery coach, not Robin Hood. Sports quivers are not like the movies. Sports archers don't usually reach over their shoulders to whip arrows out in quick succession and fell game/villains. At least, that's not what I imagine when I think of sports archers. Emily, however, imagined quivers on backs, running through woods, powerful and free (Robin Hood, in other words).
I took Emily fabric shopping with me to buy lovely rich brown vinyl to make Robin Hood quivers, with light brown top-stitching and possibly tassels and other such woodlandish embellishments. Instead, she stopped at the marine vinyl rack and pointed.
"I want pink ones, Mum. And the blue looks nice, too. Also the yellow."
My Robin Hood aspirations evaporated.
"What about brown?" I bleated, without much hope.
"That's not fun." she said. "Pink is better."
This is her party afterall, not her forgot-to-grow-up Mother's.
So rainbow vinyl it was.
Colored on the front, whitish on the back. These were about $17 a yard at JoAnn. Half a yard made four quivers.
I'm going to share my quiver pattern with you. I used Dad's quiver dimensions but boxed out the bottom to accommodate the fat, marshmallow-headed arrows we were using. Remember that the pattern has NO SEAM ALLOWANCES, so add your own. Also note that if you make your quivers look exactly like mine, they will be for right-handers (see how the arrows rest against the curved lip of the the opening in the first photo as the quiver rests against the right shoulder). If you are making them for left-handers, just reverse the way the mouth/lip curves so the quiver can be worn against the left shoulder.
CLICK HERE to download Quiver Pattern
And here's how to make the quiver.
First you make the straps.
- 18.5" of 1.5" webbing
- 14" of 1" webbing cut into two pieces: a 10.5" and a 3.5" piece
- one 1" buckle
I made quite a few of these straps. But you don't need to- you just need one.
Now you are ready to assemble the quiver!
Here's a tip:
Use a leather needle for vinyl. See those two needles outside the needle case? The one on the left is the leather needle. It's longer and thicker than the universal needle on its right. It goes through vinyl (and leather, too, I presume) like butter, doesn't skip stitches and is just lovely. I used regular polyester thread.
First, you hem down the top edge (and sew on the little name label, if you want). Were I not mass-producing and instead taking my time to produce a single, professional-looking thingy, I'd bind this edge, not fold-and-hem it. (I'd also probably make it in brown leather, mutter mutter..... ) But as that was too much to do for 22 quivers, simple hemming it was.
You can do this two ways: one way is to pin or use binder clips or whatever helps you to keep that hem in place. This might leave holes and you might get little darts like this:
It's OK, because it allows the hem to lay flat on the right side of the fabric, which is the whole point.
Or you could throw away the clips and pins and just ease it - much nicer.
Here- I made you a horrendously out-of-focus video (not intentional; just very poor movie-making skills) to show you how I did it. Note that this "easing" is not the same as the proper garment technique by the same name that I use for setting sleeves and other things into openings. That is completely different.
So anyway, here is the (non-sleeve-setting) hand-easing method for hemming vinyl. Obviously this would be even easier on a straight edge, but I'm showing you a curvy edge just to prove that it works. Also note the part the walking foot played in the success of this technique.
Aaaaaand here are the 22 rainbow quiver hems. Takes minutes, literally.
Once the hem is done, attach the ends of the two straps according to the markings on the pattern. The wide strap goes on top and the narrow strap goes on the side of the quiver. I apologize for beheading the wide strap so that you can't see the buckle. The buckle side should be face down (i.e. touching your work surface) in this picture.
Next fold the quiver in half lengthwise, right sides together, and sew up the side seam from top to bottom. Remember to move the narrower strap out of the way so you don't sew it into the side seam.
Box out the base the way you would any boxy tote bag. My quiver's base was 3" wide.
Chop off the corners.
Turn right side out.
Vinyl seams don't lie flat (and won't succumb to pressing, so don't bother) so you'll have to top-stitch this side seam down. Because of the small opening, you won't be able to stitch more than about 2" from the top. That's okay- it's all you need to ensure the seam allowance lies flat at the mouth of the quiver.
Now slide the male half of the buckle onto the narrower strap like this. Note that I also sealed this free end of the strap using the same candle method mentioned earlier.
The buckle will now allow you to completely separate the straps
and adjust the overall length of the strap across the body.
Ta da! A rainbow of quivers.
Here are fake slow-motion shots of the quiver in action.
Here is Jenna demonstrating how to swing the quiver around to your front so you can reload your arrows.
And that brings us to the end of the Archery Set Tutorial Trilogy:
But not to the end of the whole archery tutorial series. There are still the pinata, the games and the medals to go!
Update later today: Um.. they're all sold out now.
Here are the three colors, modeled by Jenna (age 6). The dimensions are in the item description in the shop, but these quivers were worn by kids as small as Kate (she's 4) and her boy cousins (10 and almost 12). The curve of the mouth of the quiver was made for right handers but these quivers can be slung the other way across the body for left-handers as well.
See you tomorrow for the target pinata!
P.S. Irrelevant point: I loooooove Jenna's hair. I wish I had Jenna's hair.