So, let me say how much I enjoy this online community of seamstresses and blog readers, and your responses to my crazy posts and random soapbox rambling and the interaction we have as a result.
And let me say that I have learned at least as much from you guys as you claim to have learned from me. Like the time when, after sewing all these years, I learned a new way to unpick stitches, which I never knew. And the other time when I repeatedly spelled "catapult" as "catupult" and didn't realize it looked utterly and ridiculously wrong until one of you guys kindly pointed it out.
And let me also say that I fear that I sometimes (okay - often) come across as being an insufferable know-it-all simply because I have the disorder known as perfectionism (sometimes called ThePrintMustAlignAtTheSeams-itis and - when I'm more self-aware - stupidism), which is incurable and which gets worse with age. And that, while sharing new techniques and tutorials with you, I fervently, desperately hope that you're never thinking that I'm thinking that my ways are better than your ways of doing stuff, because nothing could be farther from the truth. The truth, incidentally, being this: I'm mentally unsound when it comes to sewing and cardboard and crafting in general, while the vast majority of you (thank heavens) aren't.
And let me further say that I am regularly horrified when I write something silly and facetious in a post and am daft enough to forget to actually say so, and folks unwittingly take me seriously as a consequence.
What I'm trying to say is I'm soooooooooo sorry if any of you guys felt bad about pinning my monster pouch post after I said it was evil. Of course it isn't evil! And of course you can pin it. And of course I was being an idiot.
(Hangs head in shame.)
So, no more jokes-that-only-I-get, okay?
So, today, we'll be making this:
which, in Jessica Jones' Sunburst Blue barkcloth, looks like this:
Structurally, it's the same concept as the flat zippered pouch from the last post, except we add darts in the last step to give it a 3-dimensional volume. We're also seaming it differently because of the construction process, which you'll hopefully understand later.
Let's get started!
This is what we need:
- four identical pieces of fabric - two in the outer and two in the lining fabric,
- one zipper, slightly longer than the length of the fabric pieces,
- two optional tabs.
I'm deliberately omitting the fabric stops to show you what happens without them in a lined, zippered pouch. We'll get to that later.
Begin by installing and facing the zipper i.e. attaching all four pieces of fabric to the zipper. This is exactly the same thing you did with the zippered pouch in the last post. Remember to keep all stitching lines (including topstitching) out of the SA region. Here is the outer fabric side (zipper's RS):
Here is the lining side (zipper's WS). Again, the stitching lines don't extend into the SA region.
Next, bring the RS of the lining pieces together, and the RS of the outer pieces together. If you've made an edge-zippered pouch before (and we'll be doing that later in this series), you'll be familiar with this configuration.
Sew the outer fabric pieces together along their long side. Repeat for the lining pieces, leaving a gap for turning out later. These two stitching lines should extend to the edges of the fabric.
Now, if this were an edge-zippered pouch, you'd sew the short sides up now, turn everything RS out and be done. But that's not what we're making today. So let's move on to the next step.
Here's the end view of that configuration. We'll call those two lines you've just stitched "the bottom seams" or "the base seams". The outer and lining layers are joined only at the zipper.
Compress the outer layer as shown by the arrows, bringing its base seam in contact with the zipper. Do the same for the lining layer.
You'll have a flat sandwich of fabric, with the zipper between the outer and lining layers. If you want to add zipper tabs, insert them into the short ends of the fabric, pointing inward.
Now, we'll sew up those short sides,
but one layer at a time (which we can do because, when installing the zipper, we left the end sSA region unstitched) Here, I've pulled aside the outer layer to sew the lining layer. Notice that without any fabric stops, the zipper has to be assigned to either one (or none) of the layers, but not both. In this case, I'm picking the outer fabric layer to sew the zipper end to. We'll see the result of this in a later photo.
Now turn the entire project RS out through the gap in the lining's base seam. You'll have a large, flat pouch that looks like this, with the two tabs (if you'd added them earlier) sticking out at either end of the zipper.
It looks remarkably like the flat zippered pouch in our last post,
except the seaming is different - today's pouch has a bottom/base seam rather than the seam running all around the edge.
Since we're learning how to line pouches when zippers are involved, let's look at an anti-example to help us understand the role of the fabric stops we so painstakingly added in the last post (but omitted from this one). Remember how we had to assign the ends of the zipper to one layer (the outer layer) when sewing the short edges of the pouch? Here is the RS of the outer pouch, showing that end seam, which catches the zipper and tab.
Here is the pouch turned WS out to show you the lining. The end seam of the lining does NOT catch the zipper. Instead, you can see the stitches from the outer pouch's end seam peeking above the unstitched gap in the lining. If we had installed those double-layered fabric stops, we'd have been able to assign one layer each to the outer and lining, and there'd have been no gap.
One of the most important things in sewing is being able to visualize what your final project looks like in relation to the initial pattern. Our final pouch will be a voluminous 3-D thing, meaning that some of that volume will have to come from the sides of this flat interim structure. Here is the outline of that finished pouch,
and here is how we will achieve it with four corner darts.
Here is the finished pouch,
with the darts marked, along with the end seam.
Let's do those darts now. They're really easy. Turn the entire pouch WS out again, and sew vertical corner darts (this tutorial might help you do that). Remember that the two layers - the outer and the lining - of this pouch are connected only at the zipper; everywhere else, they exist as two separate pouches. So sew four darts in the outer layer, and four in the lining layer. In this end view, you can see those darts - they're the light blue marker lines.
Here is the side view of the pouch, showing those vertical darts on the outer layer (the lining layer is squashed flat underneath).
Now trim off those bulky triangular dart corners, turn the pouch RS out through the gap in the lining's base seam, and ladder-stitch that gap shut.
Some shots of the finished pouch - outer side
and lining side out:
Next up: a boxed pouch, with a side zipper!