Overalls - Adaptation for Girls

Welcome back to Adapt-An-Overall!

Today we're going to adapt the basic shortall for girls. If you're a regular reader of ikatbag, you might have noticed that recent tutorials are skewing towards process rather than product. It's something I like talking about, and something you asked for, so maybe a win-win for both of us. 

The first - and easiest - adaptation is color:

This pink-overload version uses three pink fabrics: a pink ticking on the outside and a pink print cotton for the facing. You can find ticking in the utility/home-dec/upholstery section of fabric stores. 

The third fabric is a low-contrast pink checked seersucker for the hem facing,

traditional-shaped patch pockets,

 and the lining for the inset pockets. 

For a little more contrast, the pink cotton was used to trim and edge the pockets 

and the waistband. On hindsight, I should also have edged the top edge of the waistband. 

The overall look: sweet, mild, low-contrast pink.

Here is another, unpink version- slightly more pop with the greater orange-blue contrast:

Adaptation #2 is the pinafore:

Same bodice - but the pants have morphed into an A-line skirt. 

You start with the same short-alls pattern here, and redraw it for a pinafore:

You can lower the hem even further than 2" if you prefer.

Without the crotch, the center line of the pinafore templates is completely vertical, so the templates can be laid out on the fold of the fabric, and the front and back body pieces cut out whole.

The facing follows the same shape as the upper part of the body pieces - 

the side seams will be slightly more flared now. However, the lower edge of the facing (i.e. its hem), remains the same as in the original shortall pattern.

As before, three fabrics are used: an outer yellow ticking, a yellow striped cotton for the waistband and pockets,  

and a yellow print cotton for the facing, 

which was also used for the pockets. Purely for interest, the bib pocket and hip pockets have their outer layers and linings reversed. Instructions to make faux-flap patch pockets like these can be found here.

Because there was a lot of yellow, I added grey/taupe piping throughout the dress and grey/taupe buttons for a second color.

The bottom hem was finished simply by folding it up and top-stitching on the outside. 

The overall look: modern, high contrast, lots of pop with just two colors.

I want to point out that the lining fabrics of both the pink and yellow outfits above are quilting cotton. See- I do use them in my garments! I know I've gone on and on about not using quilting cotton for garments and I hope you're not frightened off sewing forever. Please keep using and enjoying funky prints if you love them. And quilting cotton if you love it. But I meant that if the opportunity presents itself, also try linen. Or twill. Or chambray. Or corduroy. Or poplin. Or knit interlock. I think you might just love the difference it makes.